Completing Dashboard

Which switch goes where? I wasnt sure. And it took ages to work it out.

From top left it is, Washer plunger, Fuel guage, Ignition key (oil filter warning above), Dual guage (oil pressure, cooling temp) and Lights switch, then bottom left it is , Choke, Wiper switch, dash lights and heater knob.

And of course when fitting the various wires through the bulkhead each one went through the hole that seemed right at the time but later was found to be the hole for the heater cable or Cooling guage capillary tube.

The washer plunger now has switch built in, to look original, but operate an electric pump. The oil filter warning isnt required due to an oil filter mod and is now the immobiliser warning LED.

Now its time to add a battery to test all the electrics...

Where's the fire extinguisher?

Yamaha XT500

eBay are doing a "advertise your motor for free" weekend, so I thought I would advertise the motorbike.

I've had this bike for about 17 years and it was last taxed in 1994. When I last rode it the bob weights on the advance retard mechanism fell to pieces. It was still running though.

The dust sheet was removed and after a quick clean it began to look sell-able. Next I needed to start it. It hasn't run for a few years and each time I tried it would cough and splutter when the "easy start spray" was used. Petrol doesn't last forever so I started by draining the tank, It wouldn't drain, as the fuel tap was blocked, so this needed to be fixed. Then I realise the carburettor was empty, so it had to be dismantled. All the fuel, that had been inside, had turned to jelly blocking the main jet and float valve.

It still wouldn't start. So the timing was adjusted. Still wouldn't start except an occasional burst when started with "easy start" and a full throttle. Maybe the idle jets are blocked as well.

Having jumped on the kick starter about a thousand time I was rather tired so gave up.
Half an hour later, my leg was feeling quite sore, and my right foot began to ache. When I walk its like I have large thing in my shoe. I seem to have bruised the sole of my foot!

All this reminds me of the chap who sold me the bike. He was getting on a bit then too and found starting the bike was tricky with a bad back and a dodgy leg.
Sounds familiar...

Dashboard

Went to Helsinki 3 times last week, didn't get very much sleep so feel rather jet-lagged. Consequently I haven't done very much.

I did have a look at the dashboard problem. It fits but not with the door seals fitted. So I had to bend back the door surround I bent a while ago to fit the door seals. More touch-up painting required.

Then found that the right angle brackets were "handed" which probably explains why they never fitted 20 years ago. The right hand one now fits but the left hand one is just for show.

I spotted a slight crack in the paint while I had my head contorted in the passengers footwell, so jabbed it with a chisel and revealed more rust! The inside footwell part of the "chassis" rails were covered in a surface layer of rust, last painted over 30 years ago by a mechanic with a new toy (mastic spray gun). It should be OK after a quick rub and a layer of rust killer.

I hope...

Hydraulics, and Instruments

Today it was time to fit the brake pipes and hoses. Copper pipes were fitted 22 years ago and, as expected, they are still in perfect condition.

I also fitted Goodridge braided hoses. These were bought, but not fitted, 15 years ago! Fortunately they claim to be guaranteed forever. We'll see if they last that long.

Whilst crawling around under the car to fit the rear pipes and hoses, I found it rather difficult to get back up again, wedged as I was between car and garage wall. Maybe I need to fit some some of those handles that usually adorn old folk's bathrooms.

It being rather chilly outside, I also cleaned up the Speedo and Tacho, ready to fit to the dashboard. The dashboard was painted many years ago using the original looking crackle finish paint. It took 3 goes to get any crackles in the paint. It needed to be done in the right temperature environment. "She" wouldn't let me do it in the house so I took it to work. The results were superb.

Decided it would be nice to see the Dashboard fitted today, so began the task. Then found it wouldn't fit due to the door seals (see earlier post) and the windscreen bolts had bowed the dash top, such that the centre section wouldn't bolt in place. This explains why the windscreen centre bolts had two gasket/spacers fitted in the dash top. Both are now fitted and the dashboard looks fine - except the door seals are hanging off again.

Windscreen, and number plate light.

New seals obtained from sussexclassiccar. These seals go under the windscreen, where it bolts to the body. Problem being, these seals are new and don't compress, so I couldn't fit any of the 4 bolts that hold the screen on.

Struggled for ages, then gave up. I cut some rubber matting to the right shape and fitted the screen without problem.

The number plate plate lamp was next. I had fitted the plinth some time ago. As usual this had to be removed to fit the light. Then the new light unit has M5 studs not 3/16". Another trip to the shops for some nuts to fit. With the wires soldered and the earth bolted to the boot lock support, it should work if I ever get to fit a battery.

Windows, easy to get out, hard to get in.

I've been avoiding the passenger's window ever since I fitted the drivers window. It took a whole day to fit it. I should have done the passenger window straight away while the process was clear in my mind.

Two hours later it was done! Easy! The quarter light goes in first, Then loosen the channel by the door lock. Wind the winder until the winding mechanism is as far to the rear as possible then remove all 8 bolts. Shuffle the window and winder about until it all joins up and re-bolt.

It's a good idea to fit the right angle bracket at the end of the quarter light channel before putting in the window. Darn tricky otherwise.

Then found that the windscreen doesn't really line up that well with the quarter lights. So it had to come off again. Needed some new seals anyway.

With the wiring loom in yesterday, I offered up the dashboard. Its rather tight and the steering wheel and shaft had to come off as well.

Net result, 2 things on, 2 things off.

Great...

Too Many Wires...

It's cold outside, so I thought it would be a good time to deal with the wiring loom.

Somewhere over the last 20 years I seem to have lost the "original" wiring loom. I bought another from eBay but it was too different to what Jemima needed. So, feeling flush, I bought a new loom from sussexclassiccar . Then spent a few days thinking about how to modify it.

I need to re-do the mods for negative earth and the alternator conversion, which I first did years ago. Then I'll fit the Toad Powerkey immobiliser, electric washer, reverser switch & lights, Fog light and multi way fuse box.

So I thought about it some more and then started cutting up the old loom for parts. The original control box was modified to contain 2 fuses by removing the internals and adding a few links underneath. This article gives some of the idea.

The immobiliser has two switching circuits. One circuit cuts the supply to the starter solenoid and the other cuts power to something else ( I'm not saying - just in case) hopefully when I come to try to start the car it will work as designed and detect the "magic" keyring.

As I now have reversing lights on Jemima, I used the rear portion of the old loom and spliced it onto the new loom with some minor changes.